Have explored the not terribly attractive main town of Savai’i, Salelologa, which is more a service centre than a real town. In one of those inexplicable planning decisions, the market and bus station have been moved a few kilometers out of town, a sort of mini-industrial estate in the middle of nowhere, and that, I imagine, has removed half the commercial and three-quarters of the human activity from Salelologa. All the same, we quite enjoyed our little exploration of the place, and on the way back to Lusia’s stopped in at a local restaurant, a fale’aiga, which (I think) means something like ‘family house’ & if I’m right, isn’t that a great way to regard a place where people come together to eat? Anyway, it wasn’t that flash, but staffed by three friendly middle-aged women. We ordered fish & chips, and when the food came there was a surprise. What was that green thing on the plate? Limu, we were told, and decided it had to be a type of seaweed. A little cautiously I tried it. Not bad at all. Soft & rubbery in the mouth, an explosion of intense saltiness when bitten into. A little like caviar. And the stem slightly stringy, in the way that broccoli sometimes is. I ate the lot.