Our sixth night in Samoa, and finally a chance for a proper restaurant meal, here at Lusia’s Lagoon Chalets on Savai’i. For three nights on Namu’a we ate what was prepared for us (and no real complaints; I was very happy to be served boiled breadfruit, something I remember fondly from Kiribati (especially when fried) along with barbecued chicken & salad one night) and before that in Apia, in the evenings, we didn’t venture far away from Seipepa’s bungalow. So, a treat to actually decide for ourselves what to eat. I chose the oka, the raw fish salad, for an entrée – tuna, tomato, cucumber, in coconut cream – a bit bland actually – no onion, no lime juice, nothing to bring the dish alive in the mouth. The grilled fish main course was good, and served with a few quarters of mushroom; I never think of pairing something from the sea, like fish, with something as earthy as mushrooms; it doesn’t seem to go, not instinctively … but it does work; I had something similar (and better, to be honest) for lunch in Apia, at a café called Mari’s, near the Aggie Grey hotel. As this was our first restaurant meal I went the whole hog and ordered dessert, very boring ice cream and chocolate syrup. Staggered off to bed feeling very replete.