After two nights in Apia, off to stay in a beach fale on Namu’a Island. The island’s a short boat ride from the mainland, and uninhabited apart from the tourist accommodation. Not a big island, but a great spot. The fales thatched and open-sided, with woven screens to drop down for privacy and protection from the elements. A white sand beach, places for snorkeling, coconut palms … picture perfect. As part of the deal of staying there, breakfast & dinner are included in the daily rate. No shops, no restaurants, so it’s a case of either bringing lots of your own supplies for lunches & reassurance, or hoping for the best. We did the latter. And thanks heavens it wasn’t a diet of tinned food. The first night was modest, fried whole small fish that the young guys had been spearing in the shallows a couple of hours earlier … freshness guaranteed! … but our first breakfast was quite a spread. Bread and butter, plates of fried eggs (with runny yolks, yay!) garnished with finely chopped tomato & green pepper, of fried ham garnished with onion, of fried battered thinly sliced rounds of aubergine, and of pawpaw with small wedges of lime to squeeze over. Most impressive. And then, just when eating more seemed impossible a chocolate birthday cake was brought to the table. Always room for a slice of chocolate cake! I really think I haven’t had such a satisfying breakfast in a long time.